The Peninsula Development road is great when freshly graded. Red gravel, yellow sand and white clay allow easy travel early in the dry. By September this road is drastically changed. Corrugation, dust holes, bulldust and sand take a heavy toll on vehicles, destroying suspension, tyre or trailer. It is essential to travel slowly, which means sufficient time- at least 2 weeks exploration by vehicle. Carry supplies from Cooktown as fuel and food are exorbitant in Coen, “capital of the Cape”. Opposite the turnoff to Weipa, “capital of ecological destruction of the cape” a quiet road leads to an incredible wild area including Australia’s largest expanse of lowland rainforest.
A single lane 4WD track heads toward the east coast, 140km distant. Tall eucalypt dominated by E. tetradonta glows green over Batavia goldfield, on the bank of the mighty Wenlock River. Longest river in the cape, the Wenlock source lies in Iron range and meets the West coast 250km distant. 48 species of freshwater fish make this Australia’s most diverse river.
The track winds through hilly country and crosses the Pascoe River before meeting mountain. Swaths of open heath vegetation drape the harsh rocky peaks of Iron Range, subject of past mining activity but saved by timely discovery of Iron ore in Western Australia. Banksia, Grevillea, Melaleuca and Xanthorrea (Grasstree) form an olive green horizon, dotted with tall orange Cathedral termite mounds.
A saddle between peaks offers views over Mt Tozer (543m). Here sand and mud cover fragments of bitumen road, formed during WW2 to link long abandoned port and military outpost. The bomber airstrip now services Lockhart River Aboriginal community, a small town of 500 people. The road finally ends at Portland Roads, a tiny hamlet serviced by a fortnightly barge from Cairns.
The eastern Iron Ranges are clad in low, rolling, untracked jungle. A stronghold for biodiversity, hundreds of bird species provide incredible viewing. Raucous Palm Cockatoos, Eclectus Parrot and Magnificent Rifle-birds bring birdwatchers from worldwide. Some of the highest diversity of ants, butterflies, fruit flies, ferns, orchids and palms in Australia occurs here. Closely linked to Papuan flora and fauna, Iron Range NP is Australia’s largest lowland rainforest.
I camped at windswept, coconut fringed Chili Beach, after battling DEEP red mud! Just north lies Restoration Island, where William Bligh and his loyal crew landed in 1792 after the Bounty mutiny. Water, seabirds and greens restored the loyal crew to health and Bligh continued north to Java.
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